Lebanon

Travel report - Land of the Cedars

I had the opportunity to visit Lebanon for the first time in August 2021. Since then, I’ve returned regularly, almost every year, until it eventually became more than just a destination. It became a place I now call home.
Over the years, I have experienced Lebanon in many different ways: traveling solo, with friends, and with family.
I travel with a French passport, which has shaped some of the practical aspects of my stays, and I’ll also be sharing that side of the experience for those considering visiting.

Welcome to the beautiful Land of the Cedars.

Baalbek, Lebanon - Manon Roca

BONUS

As an absolute fan of Lebanese music, I created a playlist dedicated to Lebanese artists during my very first visit.
It’s available on Spotify:
https://open.spotify.com/playlist/5A4sVlsiCqyTDYaPHcdnuC?si=e1c662ab5c3944b1

IMMIGRATION / VISA

Visa on arrival is available for many nationalities (e.g., French passport holders like me).
The process is straightforward, just a quick passport stamp and you will be granted one month.
Get the address where you are staying ready. The officer might ask for a couple more questions, like you job or your reason to visit Lebanon, but that’s it.

However, if your passport shows any trace of travel to Israel, entry will be denied.

SAFETY

Lebanon felt completely safe, as a solo female traveler.
I visited the country fourth times: first alone, then with friends, and the third and forth time with Lebanese people I now consider family.
I always felt 100% comfortable and welcomed, even in poorer or less touristy areas, including at night while walking back to my place in Tripoli, Jbeil, and Beirut.

No one ever tried to scam me. Every shop, restaurant, and driver charged fair local prices and always gave me the correct change - even during the peak of the severe economic crisis in August 2021.

MONEY & CURRENCY

Cash is king in Lebanon : bring USD or euros.
You can basically pay in either USD or Lebanese pounds (LBP) almost everywhere.
The official exchange rate at the moment is 1 USD = 89,500 LBP. (update Feb 2026).
Most locals and shops accept both currencies interchangeably. Change is often given in a mix of USD and LBP, so it requires a bit of mental math.
You can use your card in large supermarkets or in more upscale restaurants and coffee shops.
If you’re in a cash emergency, you can send money to yourself via Western Union (not highly recommended, as the fees are quite high) or withdraw money at ATM (fees varies between 3-6% in general).

Bcharre, Lebanon - Manon Roca

FOOD

Lebanese food is some of the best in the world to my opinion. Here are a few of my favorite restaurants in Beirut:
  • Loris Restaurant: my favorite
  • Rafic Marrouche Restaurant: the greatest toum (garlic sauce) in town.
  • Cremino: an amazing patisserie for sweet treats.
  • Al Falamanki Raouche: with a magnificent view over the sea
  • Basterma Mano: love the sujouk, basterma, and makanek sandwiches there

This is just to name a few

TRANSPORTATION IN LEBANON

During my time in Lebanon, I used a combination of taxi apps, local buses, and a private driver. Here’s a breakdown.

Corniche, Beirut – Manon Roca

Private Driver

I highly recommend Philippe, a trustworthy driver who speaks fluent French, English, Spanish, and of course Arabic.
He has been working as both a driver and a guide in Lebanon for years and knows the country like the back of his hand.
I did several day trips with him, including Anjar–Baalbek and Bsharri, but he can cover all regions of the country.

Here’s his WhatsApp number: +961 3 074 647.
Feel free to contact him and mention my name (Manon).

Taxis

Official taxis have red license plates.
Uber, Bolt and InDrive work well in Beirut (just remember that you’ll need to pay in cash).
With InDrive, one of the main differences with is that you set the price yourself. Instead of accepting a fixed fare, you propose an amount and the driver can accept, decline, or negotiate. And you can also book a motorbike.

For Bolt and Uber, it’s very common for taxis to apply a minimum fare of $5. This is largely because app prices haven’t been properly updated in line with the fluctuations of the Lebanese pound over the years. As a result, what you see on the app isn’t always what you end up paying.

Taxi meters do not exist in Lebanon. If you take a regular taxi, make sure to agree on the fare with the driver beforehand.

Buses

It’s easy to travel along the coast using public buses or minibuses (Tripoli, Jbeil, Batroun, Beirut, Saida, and Tyre).
For destinations farther from Beirut, use Uber if it’s relatively close. Otherwise, a private driver is your best option.
Hitchhiking is not common in Lebanon and is generally frowned upon by locals, who don’t fully understand the concept.

Public Bus Locations

Tripoli
https://maps.app.goo.gl/c8Bb9vhZMZEKh7Ea9

Beirut (Heading North – Tripoli, Byblos, Batroun)
Martyrs’ Square to catch a bus.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/2EHJtV6hssJTzFrN9

Beirut (Heading South – Sidon and Tyre or Bekaa region)
Cola Station. From here, you can also find shared taxis to Damascus, Syria.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/5ERrx8HEufLLRcjj7

Also from Mar Mkhayel Church
https://maps.app.goo.gl/2HxsDybdq7mYVeZ1A?g_st=aw

Baalbek
Two main locations. One is next to the temples in front of Palmyra Hotel, the other one in Douris:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RXdZ5VjT5kJFwS2E8
https://maps.app.goo.gl/iEMJwTm93vxy7KRo6

Saida
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HMMpnwp4HzLHJ45N7

Tyre
https://maps.app.goo.gl/9S8yBdNHXD5mUVv76

Batroun, Beirut – Manon Roca

Where to Stay

Check out our dedicated article about hostels and hotels suitable for travelers in Lebanon here:
[insert link]
I’ve listed all these places on a Google Maps list to make it easier for you to find them.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/gDnhfftJsAjqJfi58?g_st=i
I also created a map featuring some of the most amazing guesthouses in the country:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/M6j9nTbkfNxiBaBq8?g_st=ac
These places are not backpacker-budget friendly but promise exceptional experiences.
I personally stayed at Beyt el Jabal in Deir El Qamar and absolutely loved it.

SIGHTSEEING

Here is a non-exhaustive list of things you can do in Lebanon.

Tripoli – Manon Roca

North Lebanon

Tripoli
  • Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles
  • Al Mansouri Mosque
  • Al Burtasi Mosque
  • Hammam Al Abed
  • Khan Al Saboun (Soap Market)
  • Souk Al Haraj
  • Palm Islands

Batroun
  • Phoenician Wall
  • Monastery of Saint Stephen
  • Saint George’s Cathedral
  • Batroun Port
  • Colonel Beer Brewery
  • White Beach

Byblos

  • Byblos Archaeological Site (Temple of the Obelisks & Crusader Castle)
  • Old Souks
  • Historic Port
  • Saint John-Marc Church
  • Fossil Museum (Memory of Time)
  • Pierre & Friends Beach

El Mina, Tripoli – Manon Roca

Mount Lebanon

Jabal Moussa
  • Jabal Moussa Biosphere Reserve
  • Roman Bridge Trail
  • Mashnaka Temple
  • Chouwan Waterfall

Jounieh
  • Harissa Cable Car
  • Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lebanon
  • Casino du Liban
  • Old Town
  • Tabarja Beach

Deir El Qamar

  • Fakhreddine Palace
  • Church of Our Lady of the Hill
  • Deir El Qamar Synagogue
  • Marie Baz Museum

Jabal moussa – Manon Roca

Beirut
  • Corniche
  • Raouché Rock
  • National Museum of Beirut
  • Gemmayzé Street
  • Mar Mikhaël Street
  • Sursock Museum
  • Hamra Street
  • Downtown Beirut
  • Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque
  • Saint George Maronite Cathedral
  • Martyrs’ Square
  • Beirut Souks
  • Zaitunay Bay
  • Beit Beirut Museum
  • Bourj Hammoud (Armenian neighborhood)
  • Badaro Street
  • Horsh Beirut Park
  • Beirut Art Center
  • AUB Campus & Museum
  • Armenian Genocide Orphans’ “Birds’ Nest” Memorial

Beirut – Manon Roca

North Mountains

Bsharri
  • Qadisha Valley
  • Cedars of God Forest
  • Gibran Khalil Gibran Museum
  • Monastery of Mar Lichaa
  • Monastery of Qozhaya

Tannourine
  • Tannourine Cedars Reserve
  • Baatara Waterfall (Three Bridges Sinkhole)
  • Monastery of Mar Mikhaël

Qadisha Valley – Manon Roca

Bekaa Valley

Baalbek
  • Temple of Jupiter
  • Temple of Bacchus
  • Temple of Venus
  • Stone of the Pregnant Woman (Hajar El Hibla)
  • Sayyida Khawla Mosque

Anjar
  • Umayyad Ruins

Saida – Manon Roca

South Lebanon

Sidon (Saida)

  • Sea Castle
  • Khan al-Franj
  • Soap Museum
  • Saint Louis Castle
  • Temple of Eshmun

Jezzine
  • Jezzine Waterfall
  • Saint Anthony of Padua Church
  • Traditional Jezzine knife workshops

Nabatieh
  • Local market (everything has been destroyed by Israel since).

Khiam
  • Khiam Prison (currently not accessible)

Tyre (Sour)
  • Al Mina Archaeological Site
  • Al Bass Site (Roman Hippodrome & Necropolis)
  • Old Port
  • Public Beach




Thank you for reading, and I hope this inspires you to travel to this extraordinary and diverse country.
With love,

Manon
Documentary photography: https://manonroca.com
Find me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/manonroca
2024-02-16 11:30