Iraq https://walkbeside.co ru Mon, 09 Mar 2026 19:39:00 +0300 Travel advice we wished we knew - 2026 https://walkbeside.co/iraqblog/travel_advice_iraq https://walkbeside.co/iraqblog/travel_advice_iraq?amp=true Fri, 20 Feb 2026 17:42:00 +0300 By Justin Hui

Travel advice we wished we knew - 2026

Guest Editor : Justin Hui.

I just came back from 2 weeks of travel in Federal Iraq and Kurdistan. We focused on Central Iraq (Baghdad, Babylon, Najaf, Karbala, Kufa, Samarra), Southern Iraq (Basra, the Marshes, Ur), and the North (Erbil, Mosul, Alqosh, Lalish). We took flights between Baghdad → Basra → Erbil to avoid long road trips and save time.

Iraq was one of the best trips of my life, and I hope to return. While the sites were great, the highlight was the people: their perspectives, generosity, and the experience of witnessing a country in the process of opening up. The trip felt unscripted and raw; not everything went as planned, but any inconvenience was repaid with authenticity.

1. Go now, before mass tourism arrives
Iraq is far safer than most people think, and locals are eager to show a different reality than what the media has portrayed for decades. It feels like a country on the cusp of a return to greatness and in far better shape than it even was a few years ago, when checkpoints and restrictions made travel much more difficult. We’re seeing the country stabilize and open up and it feels still very raw and real, not tainted by mass tourism. I genuinely hope Iraq doesn’t end up overrun or hollowed out by mass tourism the way some other destinations have been (like Cairo or Marrakech).

2. Guides: Helpful but use them selectively
We were just two people, so we hired city-specific guides only when needed, and explored some cities on our own. This is far cheaper than packaged tours and gives you much more flexibility on schedule. You can also negotiate better rates this way when you’re in Iraq (Many things are negotiable here).
Guides (or drivers) are especially helpful for reaching places that are harder for foreigners to access, like Samarra, Najaf, Karbala, Babylon, or Ur, especially if you’re short on time.
Guides may also be able to access sites that are currently closed if they know the “right” people
If money is tight, you can just hire a driver but they likely won’t speak English. Our guides added a lot of context, sharing personal stories and perspectives that made the experience much richer.

3. Many places are still closed
Don’t trust Google Maps or Trip Advisor. Many sites listed as “open” on Google Maps were actually closed or under renovation. This reflects a country still recovering from war or lack of funds. Some places are accessible only if you know the “right” local person, while others—like the National Museum—may not be accessible at all.
Closed places shouldn’t deter you from going though - some of the highlights in our trip were not museums or archeological sites, but the freedom to wander on our own throughout Baghdad, Mosul, talking to people, experiencing their hospitality.

Closed sites (December 2025):
National Museum of Iraq, Cultural Museum in Mosul, most churches and mosques in Mosul, Erbil Citadel, Samarra Minaret

4. SIM Cards and Internet
Local SIM cards are cheap and easy to buy at the airport or in city shops. We got a ZAIN SIM with unlimited data at Baghdad Airport, which we used to hotspot other phones. They didn’t accept eSIMs, so make sure your phone can take a physical SIM.

5. Bring $100 USD bills and exchange for Dinar
Iraq is still overwhelmingly cash-based.
Bring enough USD—locals want it and are often willing to pay more for it than the official exchange rate (1400 dinar to Dollar)…BUT they mostly want the 100 dollar bill so withdraw enough of those bills before you arrive in Iraq.
We got most of our dinars from paying our hotel with the 100 dollar bill, and receiving the change in Iraqi Dinar. We never needed to go to an ATM in our entire trip.

6. Book hotels locally for the best rates
Booking locally gets you a better rate than online. Book the first night ahead of time for immigration verification, then negotiate in person at the hotel for the rest of the nights. Often we would just show up at a hotel without a reservation and there was always a room available.

7. Mosul was a highlight
Though Iraqi’s were all incredibly kind, the kindness of people in Mosul was another level. Be careful when walking through the rubble of destroyed buildings, especially if you don't see any "Safe" signs spray painted on walls (indicating that the site has been cleared of any possible IED, explosives, and landmines)

8. Expect LOTS of photos with locals
People will constantly ask for pictures, out of pure curiosity. They may also insist on treating you. It’s okay to respectfully decline if you’re tired of posing for photographs every minute but remember to be a good ambassador for your country. Being kind and courteous goes a long way in this country. Don’t be a bitch.

9. Security checkpoints are everywhere but manageable
There are a lot of security checkpoints between cities but that’s a good thing and they’re there for your safety. We rarely ever needed to wait more than 3 - 5 minutes. Don't take photos.
Baghdad airport is the exception—arrive at least 4 hours early. We passed through five security checks before reaching the gate.

10. Safety
We felt extremely safe. Locals would genuinely protect you at all costs if you need help. Petty crime you normally encounter in the West like theft, robbery, muggings, don’t really exist in Iraq.
However, use common sense, avoid deep political discussions unless you know who you’re talking to, and don’t put yourself in risky situations.
The biggest danger is traffic. The driving is absolute chaos but somehow it still works miraculously.
For female (especially solo) travelers, see point below.

11. Women travelers
The country is still socially conservative and there are many places in public where you won’t see many women around.
While most men are respectful, don’t allow them to take advantage of you knowing that you’re a foreigner. For example, men generally will speak to the husband first instead of the woman if you’re married. There should also be no reason for any man to try to get “close” to you like putting his arm around you.
Rely on guides with strong reviews—their reputation depends on it. Or hire a female guide.
Hate to say it, but covering up helps a lot and saves you from unnecessary attention.

12. Food
The best food we had was parcha in Mosul…..soupy, juicy lamb dishes that were unforgettable.

13. Mosques are worth experiencing, even if super crowded.
Be respectful. Prayer times can be crowded and intense, but the experience is eye-opening and absolutely worth it, especially if you’re not Muslim.

14. Costs: cheap, but not dirt-cheap.
Iraq isn’t as cheap traveling in India or China, but you can get by if you live like a local. Most places are affordable but airports and tourist-facing places may overcharge. Negotiating prices are normal but be courteous about it.

15. Getting around
Download Baly or Kareem before you land. Car hailing apps are helpful not just to find a taxi, but to fix prices in advance and avoid being exploited as a foreigner.

16. Photography
Iraq is a very easy country to take photos, even for a predominantly muslim country. In fact, people kept asking us to take photos of /with them.
Majority of mosques won’t allow you to bring a camera inside but you can take photos/videos with your phone.

DO NOT photograph checkpoints, military, or government buildings. You can get in serious trouble for it.

17. Visas & entry are straightforward.
We applied online for the “Visit” e-visa, which works for both Federal Iraq and Kurdistan. It was approved in 3 days. We flew into Baghdad, and passport stamping was straightforward. Have printed hotel bookings and exit plans ready at immigration.
Iraq is complex, deeply diverse, and still healing....but the warmth, generosity, and humanity here are on another level.
Travel smart, stay humble, and represent your country well.
Text and photos by Justin Hui. All rights reserved.
You can see more of his work his Instagram.
]]> Iraq travel guide - 2026 https://walkbeside.co/iraqblog/iraq_travel_guide-2026 https://walkbeside.co/iraqblog/iraq_travel_guide-2026?amp=true Fri, 20 Feb 2026 17:45:00 +0300 By Manon Roca

Iraq travel guide - 2026

Welcome to our community travel guide to Iraq: the land where civilization was born, and where the hospitality of its people is unlike anywhere else in the world!

Thanks a lot to all the contributors to this guide, from our “Traveler Community Middle East”
  • Saif Shaban, you can find him on Tripadvisor as he works a guide
  • Mohammad Talal, from Tripadvisor he is a guide too
  • Negin, from Couchsurfing
  • Manon Roca, founder of the Traveler Community and co-founder of Walk beside.

In this travel guide, you will find information :
  • Visa requirements
  • Getting there (border crossing)
  • How to get a SIM
  • Money
  • Where to stay
  • How to get around
  • What to visit

Akre, Iraqi Kurdistan - Manon Roca

Do I need to visa to enter Iraq?

By Manon Roca and Mohammad Talal.
Yes, you should. Please note that visa on arrival is no longer available : you must apply online before crossing from Kurdistan to Federal Iraq.

Since the process isn’t always straightforward and the differences between the various visa types can be crucial for your trip to Iraq, we’ve written a complete article explaining everything in detail.

Carefully read the “Should I apply for Iraqi evisa or Kurdistan evisa?” section

Where to apply ?

  • Federal Iraq visa:
https://evisa.iq/en
Then click on apply now, then to “Direct e-visa”, don’t go to create an account, just click on Direct e-visa.

  • Kurdistan visa:
https://visit.gov.krd/

How much the e-visa costs ?

  • Ordinary evisa : 217,000 IQD “164 USD”
  • Visit evisa : 151,000 IQD “114 USD”
  • Tourist evisa : not clear
  • Kurdistan evisa: 80 USD

Should I apply for Iraqi evisa or Kurdistan evisa?

Federal Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan have separate visa systems.
Depending on where you enter first, you may need one visa, or two.

CASE 1 - You land in Federal Iraq

(Baghdad, Najaf, Basra airpots or a land border to Federal Iraq)
You only need a Federal Iraq e-Visa.
When you arrive:
  • You receive a visa sticker in your passport.
  • With this visa, you can travel freely to Kurdistan.
  • You do NOT need to pay for a separate Kurdistan visa.

This is the easiest and cheapest option if you plan to visit both regions.

CASE 2 - You land in Iraqi Kurdistan

(Erbil and Sulaymaniyah airports or land border from Turkey/Iran to Kurdistan)
You need a Kurdistan e-Visa (80 USD). This visa allows you to stay only in Kurdistan.

If you stay only in Kurdistan: nothing else is required.
Important: if you arrive in Erbil airport with only a Federal Iraq e-Visa, you will be required to pay for a Kurdistan visa at the airport (80 USD)

CASE 3 - You enter Kurdistan first, then want to visit Federal Iraq

With this visa, you can only visit the Iraqi Kurdistan Region. If you wish to travel to Federal Iraq, you must apply for a separate Iraqi e-visa.
You are required to apply online for a Federal Iraq e-visa before crossing the border. We recommend choosing one of these two visas (details below).
  • Visit e-Visa: 151,000 IQD (~114 USD)
  • Ordinary e-Visa: 206,000 IQD (~156 USD)
You must: apply online, pay online, print the visa and show it at the checkpoint (Mosul or Kirkuk).
No sticker is usually added when crossing from Kurdistan to Federal Iraq, they just check your documents.

Our recommendation is to land in Baghdad, Najaf, or Basra airport. This way, there is no need to pay the additional Kurdistan visa.
If you are traveling by land from Turkey, or entering from Iran to the Kurdish region of Iraq, the Kurdistan e-visa only allows you to stay within the Iraqi Kurdistan region. To travel onward to Federal Iraq, you will need to obtain and pay for a separate visa.

Lalish, Iraqi Kurdistan - Manon Roca

Getting there by border crossing

Crossing from Kuwait

It exists only one, located here.

If you’re planning to enter Iraq from Kuwait, here’s a simple and cost-effective way based on traveler experiences. Entering via Kuwait grants a federal Iraqi visa, valid for travel across the whole country.
The cheapest and most popular way is to take a local bus to Al Jahra, and then from Al Jahra, find a shared taxi to the Abdali border. You can also opt for a private taxi, found on the street near my place. The driver may ask $20, but you can try to bargain down to $14–15. The ride takes about 1.5 hours.

Just before the border police checkpoint, the driver drops passengers at a small parking area on the left, where you can catch a car onward. Many drivers offer direct trips to

Crossing from Saudi Arabia

There is only one that is called Arar border.
Location

⚠️ Important: This border is only open to Iraqi and Saudi nationals. Other travelers cannot use this crossing.

Crossing from Jordan

The border crossing is called Al-Karamah on the Jordanian side and Turaibil on the Iraqi side. You can view its location here.

The price from Amman to Baghdad usually ranges from $70 to $100 USD with shared taxis and the journey takes about half a day.

Crossing from Syria

There are three border crossings between Iraq and Syria, but currently only one is open. It is called Al-Qaim and is located near the Syrian town of Al-Bukamal (Abu Kamal).
Location here

Crossing from Syria into Iraq can be very slow and exhausting. Traveling by bus from Baghdad to Damascus can take up to 24 hours and is quite affordable, but a large portion of the time is spent waiting at the border.
As of February 2025, we do not recommend this route. Recent releases of ISIS prisoners from Syria have created security concerns at the border. White foreigners, in particular, may be mistaken for former prisoners and could face serious difficulties during the crossing.

Crossing from Turkey

The border is called Ibrahim Khalil, located here.
Feedback about this border crossing is quite varied. Some people cross in less than an hour, while others take several hours, or even get stuck for several days, whether traveling by car or on foot.
Other than that, there are no particular issues to report. It seems that the experience largely depends on the officials present at the border at the time of your crossing.

However, there is one very important detail to note. If you enter Iraq from Turkey through this border, you will receive a visa that only allows you to stay in the Kurdistan Region of Iraq.
If you wish to travel to Federal Iraq, you will need to pay for a second visa, for Federal Iraq. Make sure to read the visa section carefully to fully understand the requirements

Mosul, Iraq - Manon Roca

Types of e-visa

Kurdistan eVisa
  • Purpose: Visa specifically for the Kurdistan Region of Iraq (the autonomous region in the north, including Erbil & Sulaymaniyah).
  • Limitations: This only covers the Kurdistan Region. If you want to travel into Federal Iraq (e.g., Baghdad, Najaf, Basra), you will also need the Federal Iraq eVisa.
  • Cost: ~$80 USD (sometimes reported ~78 USD).

Tourist E-Visa (e-Visa Portal)
  • Purpose: Sightseeing, visiting historical sites, and cultural exploration.
  • Validity: Usually 30 days.
  • Process: Applied for online without visiting an embassy.
  • Requirements: Valid passport, digital photo, and travel itinerary.

Visit E-Visa (Visit or Tourism Visa)
  • Purpose: Broader than tourism; covers visiting family, friends, or religious,, religious events/pilgrimage.
  • Validity: Often 30 days to 3 months, similar to tourist, but sometimes specifically for shorter, focused visits.
  • Requirement: Sometimes requires a guarantor or specific invitation, particularly for certain nationalities.
  • Visit e-Visa: 151,000 IQD (~114 USD)

Ordinary E-Visa (Standardized E-Visa Process):
  • Purpose: General travel, including short-term business or personal visits.
  • Duration: Often allows for a longer stay of up to 3 months, often requiring registration with the Directorate of Residence within ten days of arrival.
  • Distinction: While "e-visa" is often used for the online process (30 days), "Ordinary" sometimes refers to the standard, longer-stay paper visa applied through an embassy.
  • Ordinary e-Visa: 206,000 IQD (~156 USD)

Additional notes

  • Processing time: Approval within 12-24 hours.
  • Print the e-visa and present it at the airport (or you will cross the border to Federal Iraq) to receive the visa sticker in your passport.
  • If the payment online doesn’t work, contact with your bank to allow you to pay online through the Iraq evisa webiste.
  • Save your application number manually, emails may not be sent (in rare cases).
  • Use a VPN if the payment link doesn’t work.
  • If the payment fails and you don’t have the application number, you must wait 24 hours before reapplying.
  • Many cards do not work, but Revolut cards have the highest success rate. Debit cards work better than credit cards.
IN SUMMARY: Use VPN + Revolut cards (if the payment fails).

On the left: Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan - Manon Roca

On the right: Baghdad, Iraq - Manon Roca

How to get a SIM

Getting a SIM in Syria is relatively straightforward, similar to neighboring countries. You’ll usually need to show a copy of your passport and visa.

Two of the main providers are Zain and Asiacell, with good coverage in both North and South of the country. The second one (Asiacell) seems to be cheaper.
  • Zain: they sell 15-day SIM with 10 GB of data for 20,000 IQD (~$14).
NB: if you only have the visa sticker in your passport (only the paper e-visa, because we arrived via Kurdistan), they most likely would not give you the SIM.
  • Asiacell: offers weekly unlimited 4G plans for 12,000 IQD (~$8), monthly plans with 10 GB + free social media for 15,000 IQD (~$10), and unlimited monthly 4G for 40,000 IQD ((~$28).

NB: For both Zain and Asiacell, even “unlimited” data plans have a throttle limit: 20 GB for the 7-day plan and 100 GB for the 1-month plan. After reaching this limit, speeds are capped at 3 Mbps.

SIM cards are activated quickly, often in 5–10 minutes, and top-ups are easy at local shops.

Money

Cash is king in Iraq
It’s better to arrive with US dollars, as the black-market exchange rate is often more favorable than withdrawing money from ATMs. You’ll usually get better value for your dollars on the black market, so plan accordingly to make the most of your money.
The black-market rate can be around 15% better than the official ATM rate. It’s best to bring new $100 bills.
ATMs can also be unreliable, especially for foreign cards. Revolut cards, however, tend to work well.

Soran, Iraqi Kurdistan - Manon Roca

Where to stay in Iraq

Finding accommodation in Iraq is not always as simple as using the usual booking platforms. Many hostels and hotels are not listed on major websites. To book a room, you typically need to either show up in person or contact the hostel directly by phone or WhatsApp.
We have gathered a list of reliable and affordable hostels across Iraq, along with their contact details whenever available. Prices generally range from 20–40k IQD ($15–30).

Prices are provided for indication only and may not be 100% accurate. We rely on you to let us know if the price has changed after your stay, so we can keep this guide as up to date as possible.

Basrah

AlBuraq Hotel – فندق البراق
  • 30,000 IQD per night (~20 USD for one person)
  • Clean, good location, good price, breakfast included
Location

Arjaan Hotel
  • $50 per room (up to 3 guests)
Location

Nasiriyah

Hotel ZamZam
  • 25,000 IQD per night
  • Double room with AC (price for single occupancy)
  • +964 783 401 4685
Location

Najaf

ZamZam
  • Rooms start at 60,000 IQD for a single room with a double bed, 75,000 IQD for a twin room, and 90,000 IQD for a triple room.
  • All rooms include heating and air conditioning, a private bathroom, Wi-Fi, and room service (laundry, ironing, and breakfast). Cleaning service is also available.
Location

Dora Salam Hotel
  • 20,000 IQD for ensuite room (2 single beds), 5 km from the shrine
Location

Karbala

Sultan Al-Anbea’a
  • 20,000 IQD per room / 10,000 IQD per person
  • Parking at city gate near security
Location

Karbala, Iraq - Manon Roca

Hilla (near Babylon)

Al Ekhlas
  • 40,000 IQD single room / 50,000 IQD double room
Location

Baghdad

Kasr Al Barakat
  • 23 USD per night (breakfast included)
+964 775 680 7654
Location

Yasmine Hotel
  • 10–15,000 IQD per person
  • Located in Salihiya, very basic, hot water & WiFi, shared bathroom, no parking
  • +964 773 391 1015
Location

Sarko Hotel
  • 35,000 IQD twin/double
  • Breakfast, WiFi, hot water, safe parking for motorcyclists & cars
  • +964 790 133 4525
Location

Hotel Jabel Zamnaco
  • 30,000 IQD per room (breakfast included)
  • WiFi & hot water
  • +964 772 152 2440
Location

Tikrit

Rest Hotel Bay Rock
  • 60,000 IQD per night (~40 USD)
Location

Mosul

Kahramana Hotel Mosul
  • 25–30,000 IQD per night, 3 stars
  • +964 776 343 2004
Location
Baron Hotel
  • Clean rooms, friendly staff, strong AC, Wifi, breakfast included
  • 1 Person: 65,000 IQD , 2 Persons: 85,000 IQD, 3 Persons: 90,000 IQD
Location

Modern Palace Hotel - 4 stars
  • 75,000 IQD per night
Location

Nineveh Palace Hotel – فندق قصر نينوى
25,000 IQD per night
Location

Modern Plaza Hotel – فندق مودرن بلا
  • Around 50,000 IQD per night
Location

Mosul, Iraq - Manon Roca

Erbil

Samira Miss Hotel
  • 30,000 IQD (double room ensuite with TV & AC – price for single occupancy)
  • +964 782 499 2287
Location

Park City Motel
  • Very cheap, basic quality (good for one night)
Location
BL Hotel
  • $25 double room (breakfast included)
Location

Sulaymaniyah (Slemani / Sully)

Dolphin Hotel and Hostel
  • Cheap and central
  • +964 770 184 6330
Location

Khan Saray Hotel
  • Free breakfast, WiFi, parking, gym, drinks, laundry, AC
  • Single 40,000–45,000 IQD, double rooms from 72,000–80,000 IQD, triple rooms from 100,000–110,000 IQD
+9647709286000
Location

Choman

Nelle Cottage
  • Large living room + smaller bedroom, swimming pool, suitable for 6 people
  • $160 per night
Location

Soran

Hotel Soran Palace
  • 30,000 IQD per night
https://maps.app.goo.gl/VEPrie8L4PUPyTLZ9

Akre

Laween Hotel
  • One person 30,000 IQD, 2 person 50,000, 3 person 75,000
  • +964 750 603 0909
Location

Duhok

Sofia Hotel
88,000 IQD per night
Complimentary breakfast, a gym, and a sauna are included for all guests.
+9647500946060
Location

Aran Hotel
Cheap and good location, 22 $/night for one person
+9647503017115
Location

Hotel Berlin
25,000 IQD per night
+9647507530219
Location

Lalish, Iraqi Kurdistan - Manon Roca

How to get around

Buses, minibuses, and shared taxis

Getting around Iraq can feel overwhelming at first, especially if you don’t know where the main transport hubs are located.

To make your journey easier, we have gathered the locations of the main garages in Iraq’s major cities, the places where you can catch buses, minibuses, and shared taxis to travel across the country.

Shared taxis between cities are common and inexpensive. Wait until a vehicle is full, or pay extra for empty seats. Prices are generally fixed, but negotiating politely is common.

Examples of shared taxi prices (for informational purposes only):

  • Baghdad – Babylon : 10,000 IQD (~$7.70)
  • Baghdad – Mosul : 25,000 IQD (~$19.20)
  • Mosul – Dohuk : 7,000 IQD (~$5.40)
  • Mosul – Baghdad : 5,000 IQD (~$19.20)
  • Baghdad – Karbala : 10,000 IQD (~$7.70)
  • Karbala - Basrah (Minibus) : 17,000 IQD (~$13.10)
  • Karbala - Basrah (Minibus) : 17,000 IQD (~$13.10)

Baghdad

• Al-Alawi garage
Mainly to the south of Iraq, but even you can find to Mosul from this garage also
https://maps.app.goo.gl/FNfU7afZcXTRZmMB9?g_st=ic

• Al-Nahdha Garage
Mainly to the north of Iraq
https://maps.app.goo.gl/kfvoeRPYmWzFsjHm7?g_st=ic

Babylon “Babil, or Hilla”

  • Al-Hillah Unified Garage
https://maps.app.goo.gl/wghiUyk8EnW5DAqv9?g_st=ic

Karbala

  • Al-Garage Al-Mowahad
https://maps.app.goo.gl/svdq7g6Cpu7xmNxX6?g_st=ic

  • Hilla (Babylon) Terminal
https://maps.app.goo.gl/jcGh7yzTPeuKyh568?g_st=ic

Najaf

• Baghdad Garage
To North
https://maps.app.goo.gl/SPEfPREB9GAvt2WY6?g_st=ic

• Garage Al-Najaf Al-Janoby
To South
https://maps.app.goo.gl/4w2xHBqKnmihqaDv7?g_st=ic

Nasiriayh

Al-Nasiriya Unified Garage
https://maps.app.goo.gl/TP99moJLPmX6REBR6?g_st=ic

Al-Jubaysh Unified Garage
To the marshes:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/bgNnNLNtyScBJTrD9?g_st=ic

Basra

Garage Baghdad (Sahaat Saad)
https://maps.app.goo.gl/M9sPakevkny7ZCCt7?g_st=ic

Samarra

Garage Samarra
https://maps.app.goo.gl/xWRK7LReco3hyQ1J8?g_st=ic

Tikrit

Garage Tikrit
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RnM9KHzeeQCDFNe3A?g_st=ic

Al-Shirqat

Garage Al-Shirqat
https://maps.app.goo.gl/mimLwKHeAcEEqFK87?g_st=ic

Mosul, Iraq - Manon Roca

Mosul

  • Garage Baghdad
To South
https://maps.app.goo.gl/gVtLRwfhZbFrUk7eA?g_st=ic

  • Garage Al-Shemal
To North
https://maps.app.goo.gl/myNGYUsGHWWqE3aT8?g_st=ic

Duhok

Garage Duhok
https://maps.app.goo.gl/siqGx6agFkgqdgu5A?g_st=ic

Erbil

• Garage Baghdad and Sulaymaniyah
To South and East
https://maps.app.goo.gl/hjHLTK8cyeVMV5sE9?g_st=ic

• Erbil Terminal
To West” and to Turkey 🇹🇷 and Iran 🇮🇷
https://maps.app.goo.gl/3RhK3m79Jo5YSPXGA?g_st=ic

Sulaymaniyah

• Sulaymaniah Terminal
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Gnri12QryXApDgda7?g_st=ic

• Sharazur Terminal “to Halabja”
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ke9vPf8TTgHHmtDcA?g_st=ic

Kirkuk

  • South
https://maps.app.goo.gl/ViRQCeAe5Auyv5DW6?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

  • North
https://maps.app.goo.gl/8PikZvWrunMss8Ni6?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

By train

Covering 541 km (336 miles), this daily service connects the capital, Baghdad, with Iraq’s southern port city, Basrah, while allowing you to save a night of accommodation. It makes several stops, including Nasiriyah.

Baghdad ➝ Basra
  • Departure: 19:00 from Baghdad Central Station
  • Arrival: 06:00 at Basra Al Maqal Station

Basra ➝ Baghdad
  • Departure: 19:00 from Basra Al Maqal Station
  • Arrival: 06:15 at Baghdad Central Station

To book your ticket, you need to arrive at the station on the morning of the day you want to leave. Payment is accepted by card only, so it’s helpful to have a local pay for your ticket while you reimburse them in cash. You might be lucky and the person accepts your cash, but it’s not always the case.

Tickets cost 10,000 IQD (≈ $9) for second class, 15,000 IQD (≈ $13) for first class, 25,000 IQD (≈ $19) per bed in a four-bed sleeper, and 30,000 IQD (≈ $23) per bed in a two-bed sleeper.

Akre, Iraqi Kurdistan - Manon Roca

By taxi

Traditional taxis are usually yellow, around 90% of the time. Always negotiate and agree on the price before getting into the car, and clearly confirm that the fare will not change during the ride. It’s important to avoid misunderstandings once you’re already on the road.

If you prefer a more straightforward option, you can download ride-hailing apps:
  • Careem operates in most major Iraqi cities and is one of the most reliable options for travelers.
  • Baly is another popular alternative. Prices are often nearly half the cost compared to Careem. It operates in major cities such as Baghdad, Erbil, and Mosul. With competitive fares and local drivers, it is becoming increasingly popular.

What to visit

Basra

The Old City of Basrah is probably the most interesting thing to do here. You’ll still find traditional houses with their carved wooden shanashil balconies, typical of southern Iraq. Many are crumbling, some are restored, but all of them tell a story.

You can also visit one of Saddam’s former palaces overlooking the city, then take a long walk along the corniche, especially at sunset when families gather by the river. Don’t miss Al-Khafraji & Al-Ghanem Mosque, and if you’re looking for a good dinner spot, try Ayloul Restaurant by the water.

Chibayish Marshes

The marshes are a completely different world. Staying overnight is highly recommended so you can experience both sunset and sunrise over the water. You sleep in traditional reed huts, wake up surrounded by silence and reflections, and move around by small wooden boats while water buffalo stand half-submerged and fishermen glide past quietly. A completely different side of Iraq reveals itself here.

Najaf & Karbala

Najaf and Karbala are home to some of the most important Shia shrines in the world.
  • In Najaf, you’ll find the Imam Ali Shrine, one of the holiest sites in Shia Islam, as well as the Grand Mosque of Kufa. The city is also home to the Cemetery of Najaf, one of the largest cemeteries on Earth, with millions of graves : some dating back more than 1,400 years.
  • In Karbala, the Imam Hussein and Al-Abbas Shrines dominate the city. The atmosphere is deeply spiritual, especially in the evening when the golden domes glow at sunset and pilgrims gather in large numbers.

These cities are considered extremely safe, even more than many other parts of Iraq. However, as they are among the most important religious centers for the Shia community, both men and women should dress very conservatively out of respect.

Nasiriyah

Nasiriyah is mainly a gateway to one of Iraq’s most impressive ancient sites: the Ziggurat of Ur. Rising dramatically from the desert, this massive Sumerian structure dates back more than 4,000 years and feels both powerful and surreal in its simplicity.

The city itself is not particularly touristy, so visiting with a local driver makes exploring much easier.

Saddam Hussein’s palace, Babylon, Iraq - Manon Roca

Babylon

Babylon is where ancient history and recent history strangely collide. You can walk among the ruins of one of the world’s most legendary cities, then look up and see Saddam Hussein’s palace overlooking the site.

Some areas may require a local guide or special permission to access, especially if you want to enter Saddam Hussein’s palace, and entry is not always guaranteed.

Baghdad

To truly experience the atmosphere of the capital, start with a walk along Al Rasheed Street or through Al Mutanabi Street. This is where you feel Baghdad’s history most deeply. These streets come alive in the evening, when the city’s energy is at its strongest. Don’t miss the nearby Copper Market, and take time to explore the old bazaar. A walk along Al Rasheed and Al Sadoun Streets gives you a real sense of the city’s layered past and present.

There are many other notable monuments to see in Baghdad. However, be aware that some museums and attractions may close for maintenance without much notice, so always check in advance before planning your visit.

Historic and Cultural Highlights
  • Al-Mustansiriya Madrasa — One of the oldest Islamic universities in the world, it stands quietly as a testament to Baghdad’s rich intellectual past.
(Closed in February 2026.)
  • Nearby, Al-Shuhada (Martyr) Bridge stretches over the Tigris River, offering beautiful river views.
  • Tahrir Square (Liberation Square) remains central to the political and social life of Baghdad.
  • The shrines of Imam Musa Al-Kadhim and Imam Muhammad Al-Jawad are also highly worth visiting, both for their religious importance and their stunning architecture.
  • Taq Kasra (Arch of Ctesiphon) stands as one of the few surviving examples of ancient Persian architecture — a powerful and silent witness to time.

Museums & Memorials
  • The Iraq Museum (Baghdad Museum) houses collections spanning thousands of years — from the Sumerian cities of Ur, Uruk, and Lagash, to the Akkadian, Babylonian, and Assyrian empires, and through the Islamic periods.
(As of February 2026, it is still closed.)
  • The Al-Shaheed Monument (Martyr Monument), a giant bisected turquoise dome, commemorates Iraqis who lost their lives in the Iran-Iraq War.
(As of February 2026, it is also still closed.)

Baghdad, Iraq - Manon Roca

Samarra

Samarra is one of Iraq’s most historically significant cities, full of Abbasid architecture and important religious landmarks. To visit them, you’ll pass through the Al-Sadd Bridge checkpoint, where they’ll check your passport and issue a visitor’s card (or just take a photo of your visa). After your tour, return the card to get your passport back.
  • Minaret of the Great Mosque: Closed for restoration; accessible for photos on Fridays and Saturdays.
  • Minaret of Abu Dulaf: Always open; climbing allowed.
  • Al-Birka Palace: Open daily; ask the guard to open the gate.
  • Al-Ashiq Palace: Closed for restoration; photos allowed daily, entry only Fridays and Saturdays.

To get there:
  • From Baghdad, take a shared taxi from Alawi Garage (northern section). Fare: 15,000 IQD per person (60,000 IQD total for 4 passengers). Fewer passengers mean higher per-person cost.
  • Return taxis to Baghdad: ~40,000 IQD solo, ~10,000 IQD if sharing. To Tikrit: ~25,000 IQD solo.

Tips: Taxis are more available in the morning. A guided tour of the four sites costs 25,000 IQD.

Mosul

The ruined streets of Mosul shock you from the very first moment you set foot in the city. Destroyed buildings form the backdrop to everyday life, which stubbornly continues. Amid the rubble, children’s stuffed animals appear, fragments of a broken childhood; on the walls of the old city, the marks of shells, bullets, and missiles remain etched. The war is not a distant memory, it is still here, written in the stone of this city.
Today, the challenge is different: to rebuild the city with unparalleled courage and to relearn how to live after witnessing the worst atrocities. Walking through these streets, one wonders which other people could embody, better than the people of Mosul, the profound meaning of the word resilience.

(small note from me, Manon, as it is my favorite city in Iraq)
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We recommend you to visit the Old Souq, or Bab Al-Saray, a labyrinth of colors, smells, and sounds. Walking through its narrow alleys, you’ll find everything from aromatic spices to local delicacies. Nearby, the fish market is a lively and chaotic experience: some visitors love it, others prefer to skip it, but either way, it’s a glimpse into everyday life in Mosul.

The old city still bears the scars of war. Wandering among the ruined houses and crumbling streets, you can feel both the weight of history and the resilience of the people who call this city home. Al-Nouri Mosque, with its famous Hadbaa Minaret, stands as a symbol of Mosul’s endurance and cultural heritage, while the Baytna Museum and the Mosul Heritage Art House showcase artifacts and objects from daily life in the past, giving visitors a deeper understanding of the city’s rich history.

There’s also a lot to do beyond sightseeing. Try the local cuisine: Masgouf, the legendary grilled fish, and Dolma, stuffed vegetables, are absolute musts.

And don’t leave without picking up some souvenirs or traditional clothes, handmade and full of character, as a reminder of your time in this remarkable city.
We recommend you to visit the Old Souq, or Bab Al-Saray, a labyrinth of colors, smells, and sounds. Walking through its narrow alleys, you’ll find everything from aromatic spices to local delicacies. Nearby, the fish market is a lively and chaotic experience: some visitors love it, others prefer to skip it, but either way, it’s a glimpse into everyday life in Mosul.

The old city still bears the scars of war. Wandering among the ruined houses and crumbling streets, you can feel both the weight of history and the resilience of the people who call this city home. Al-Nouri Mosque, with its famous Hadbaa Minaret, stands as a symbol of Mosul’s endurance and cultural heritage, while the Baytna Museum and the Mosul Heritage Art House showcase artifacts and objects from daily life in the past, giving visitors a deeper understanding of the city’s rich history.

There’s also a lot to do beyond sightseeing. Try the local cuisine: Masgouf, the legendary grilled fish, and Dolma, stuffed vegetables, are absolute musts.
And don’t leave without picking up some souvenirs or traditional clothes, handmade and full of character, as a reminder of your time in this remarkable city.

Erbil (Iraqi Kurdistan)

Erbil is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. At its centre rises the ancient Erbil Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose walls have watched over civilizations for more than 6,000 years. (It was closed in February 2026, so check before visiting.).
(As of February 2026, it is also still closed.)
At the foot of the citadel, the Qaysari Bazaar comes alive with spice sellers, textiles, dried fruits and copperware.

In the Christian quarter of Ankawa, the atmosphere shifts completely. Churches replace mosques, and the streets are lined with cafés, bars, nightclubs and good restaurants. For a quieter afternoon, head to Sami Abdulrahman Park, one of the largest green spaces in the region.

Sulaymaniyah (Iraqi Kurdistan)

Sulaymaniyah feels different from other cities in Kurdistan. At its heart stands the Sulaymaniyah Museum, the second largest archaeological museum in Iraq after Baghdad. Walking through its halls is like travelling through time, from prehistoric artifacts to relics of the Ottoman period. It’s calm, almost understated, but the weight of history is undeniable. Just nearby rises the Great Mosque of Sulaymaniyah, an important spiritual landmark. A visit to Amna Suraka Museum, also known as the Red Prison, is intense yet essential. This former detention and torture site has been transformed into a memorial. Inside, photographs, preserved cells, and testimonies tell the story of the suffering endured by Kurdish people under Saddam’s regime.

And then, just let yourself get lost in the central bazaar and surrounding markets. Wander without direction. Stop for tea. Watch daily life unfold.

Duhok (Iraqi Kurdistan)

Duhok sits amid hills and mountains and is the gateway to discovering the Kurdish region of Iraq. Locals and visitors alike often relax in Park Azadi, a green space with cafés and panoramic views over the valley. Not far out of town, the lake and dam area offer spots to chill out.
While Duhok itself is more of a launchpad than a dense tourist hub, it’s a pleasant base to explore the surrounding region.

Lalish, Iraqi Kurdistan - Manon Roca

Lalish (Iraqi Kurdistan)

Lalish is a small valley village and represents the holiest site for the Yazidi people. The atmosphere of this place is unique, almost magical, and requires great respect and silence.

The Yazidis are an ethno-religious group primarily residing in northern Iraq, with smaller communities in Syria, Turkey, and elsewhere. Their faith is one of the most ancient in Mesopotamia, with unique traditions and rituals preserved for thousands of years.
In 2014, the Yazidi community was targeted by Islamic State (ISIS/Daesh) in the Sinjar region. Thousands were killed, and many women were enslaved.

Amadi & Barzan (Iraqi Kurdistan)

Two super cute little towns perched on the high plateaus of Kurdistan. The houses are built of old stone, and life moves slowly there.

St. Matthew & St. Anthony Monasteries (Iraqi Kurdistan)

  • Just outside Mosul, St. Matthew’s Monastery is one of the oldest Christian monasteries in the world, founded in the 4th century. Despite wars, invasions, and displacement, the monastery has remained active for more than 1,600 years. It belongs to the Syriac Orthodox Church and is still home to monks today.
  • Nearby, St. Anthony’s Monastery offers a similar sense of ancient presence. Smaller and less visited, it sits in a serene setting overlooking the plains. Like St. Matthew’s, it has survived waves of history, from early Christianity through Ottoman rule and modern conflicts.

Both monasteries are powerful reminders that Christianity in Iraq is not new: it is deeply rooted, ancient, and intertwined with the country’s history.

Akre (Iraqi Kurdistan)

Akre is a Kurdish town built into the hillside, its old stone houses cascading toward the valley below. Don’t miss the Great Mosque of Akre. Head to the Sare Gri Viewpoint for a spectacular view over the city, explore the old souk, and visit the Church of Akre.

Soran (Iraqi Kurdistan)

The region around Soran is surrounded by beautiful nature. The Rawanduz Canyon is impressive, making it easy to forget you are in Iraq. One of the standout natural attractions nearby is Kani Bast Waterfall, known locally as the tallest and most spectacular falls in the Kurdistan Region.

Soran also serves as a gateway to hikes and scenic drives deeper into the Zagros Mountains.

Choman, Iraqi Kurdistan - Manon Roca

]]> TaHtaj Shai?: Observations of an American expat living in Mosul, Iraq https://walkbeside.co/iraqblog/tahtaj-shai-observations-of-an-american-expat https://walkbeside.co/iraqblog/tahtaj-shai-observations-of-an-american-expat?amp=true Mon, 09 Mar 2026 18:27:00 +0300 By Lynne S.

TaHtaj Shai?: Observations of an American expat living in Mosul, Iraq

Guest editor: Lynne S.

I have enjoyed seeing tourism increasing in Iraq in recent years and getting a front row seat to watching foreigners falling in love with this land and its people. It’s hard not to love them! Iraq and its people have a way of getting into your heart and sticking there. For sure, you will experience it for yourself once you come.

When I first visited Mosul in 2021 just before moving to Iraq, I was met with resistance from many other ex-pats in Iraq, hearing a resounding, “It’s too dangerous”, “You can’t move there, it’s not safe”, “I’m sorry to crush your dreams, but Mosul is too dangerous, you can’t go”. And that’s what so many of us have heard about Iraq, especially Mosul, is it not? It’s a nation and a city we were taught to fear. Mosul got labeled based on its past and a time within history, blinding people from being able to see the beauty and new chapters being written in its story.

The warnings from these ex-pats were all well-intentioned and reflected their care. But I’m so thankful I didn’t listen to their fear and chose instead to lean into the possibility of what this city holds. And if you are considering visiting Iraq, I hope you’ll do the same.

I am a trauma and crisis counselor, and I made the decision to move to Mosul to be a part of the current rebuilding in the city and to see people healed from the trauma that they have collectively experienced over the course of recent decades.

Culturally though, it is not common to seek therapy or to talk to people about trauma or anything related to mental health. So daily, I am humbled to the very core of my being by the trust that the people of Mosul have given me, letting me into the most tender and vulnerable parts of themselves, confessing the parts of them that they believe are too ugly or shameful to share with another, and allowing me to bear witness to their trauma, their pain, their stories. It is one of the greatest honors of my life to get to carry their burdens and to walk the journey of healing with them, and to see PTSD became just a part of their story, and no longer a current reality they must live with.
I was the first known foreigner in decades to live in Mosul, not in a compound, but in a neighborhood and among the people. So when I first moved to the city, I heard a number of the local Moslawi people say, “There are foreigners living here, so Mosul is safe now”. Just simply being present brought a sense of felt safety to my community. As counselors, we’re taught that the number one need of every trauma survivor is the need to feel safe, and that who we are as counselors is ultimately what brings healing. The theories we implement and modalities we utilize are secondary to who we are and how we show up for people. It’s far more powerful in the healing process to be a safe presence, to hold space and listen, and to have the trust of the people we sit with. Presence over performance. Showing up with warmth and care to listen over always having the right thing to say. Trusted connection over top technique. That’s what heals. That’s what people need. Sometimes just showing up really is enough.

And you’ll see that too when you come. You’ll see how much your presence matters. Iraqis love to have their picture taken, often not even wanting to see the photo you took, but they will just walk away with a skip in their step and grinning ear to ear, happy to have had their picture taken and to have had a moment where they were seen by you. And they also will want selfies with you, because your presence brings them joy and they will want to show others who they got to meet that day- you. If they speak any English, they will want to speak with you to show you how much they know, but even if they don’t, they will still try to find other points of connection and ways to communicate with you, desiring connection even if language is limited.

There’s truly a healing power in the simplicity of presence. And in my years of living in Mosul, that power has been a reciprocated blessing of healing…
“TaHtaj shai?” This is the Arabic way to ask, “Do you need anything?” This is a common question that Iraqis ask one another when saying goodbye and before parting ways. This simple question reflects one of the most deeply profound parts of Iraqi culture. It is evidence of the heart of service to one another that is built into the cultural DNA of the people.

And that’s the thing about Iraqis- is that if you need help, you can always find it with ease. They take care of each other and look out for each other. And if you’re blessed enough to live or be among them, you’re included in that too. They are never a people to run away from a problem or from trouble, but on the contrary, they run to those in need. If you need help, you will find it. And they will never make you feel like you are too needy, a burden, or any level of inconvenience. They will gladly allow themselves to be “inconvenienced”, considering it a joy to be able to help you.

I have had taxi drivers go far above and beyond their call of duty to drive me from point A to point B, by buying me snacks for the road, getting out of the vehicle with me at checkpoints to make sure they have eyes on me at all times ensuring that I am okay, contacting with other drivers to make sure they know where to bring me and that I’m being respected, and inviting me for dinner with their whole extended family, providing the very best that they have to offer. I have had the guys at my nearest fruit and vegetable stand treat me like their sister and are always there to step in and help when my electricity isn’t working or I’m having trouble getting the proper gas bottle refilled. There are electricians that I can no longer call electricians, because they are now my friends and my brothers and men that genuinely look out for me, provide for me, serve me, and check in on me when there’s security issues in the region. There are people from every corner of the city that check on me when I’m sick and offer to go out of their way to bring me medicine and take care of me. If I’m seen carrying something heavy, within moments, someone nearby will have dropped what they were doing to come and carry said heavy thing for me. I have neighbors that regularly let me know that they are always available if ever I need anything and I have friends that always remind me, just so I don’t forget, that they are “ready to serve”, day or night, with whatever I need. I couldn’t possibly list it all, because it’s a daily service that I am on the receiving end of. I am surrounded by an army of uncles and brothers, and by my big Mosul family, that have selflessly served me and taken care of me over these years. And when I express my deep felt gratitude, feeling completely undeserving of such care, I’m always responded to with “I like helping you”, or “you’re our sister, it’s our duty”, “this is what neighbors do, we help each other” or “you are here to help my people, so it’s the least I can do to help you too”.

They say, “it takes a village”, and I stand as proof of that. It has taken the big village of Mosul coming together, to take care of this foreigner who is fumbling her way through navigating life in a new culture and city, helping me to thrive in a place so different from where I come from. They give unmerited grace to my countless cultural and language blunders. They extend patience when I still operate in ways counter to the society around me. And they continue to count me as “Iraqi” anyways; part of them.

But it’s just who they are. That is Mosul. That is Iraq. A people that care for you without any ulterior motives and expecting nothing in return because they see you as one with them. A people of honor and unmatched kindness. A people that value “we” over “me”, presence over performance, quality time over productivity, unhurried contentment over busy self-promotion, and interdependence over independence. All things that rub against my pride and humble me so needfully.

In Iraq, we love closeness and community. You’re always invited, and no one will ever feel left out because you belong with us. The cups of tea are always bottomless and extra sweet, both from the sugar and conversations held around them. The dolma and kubba are always hot and plentiful, so that you’ll always be satisfied. And the rounds of cards or backgammon can be long and go into the night as we enjoy time together, not needing to accomplish anything other than togetherness.

“TaHtaj shai?”
It’s a question that I would initially always respond to with a “No, thank you, I don’t need anything”, even if I did. A response that reflected my own trauma history manifested in an unhealthy hyper-independence; an ugly pride that always thought “I got this”, and that I could help others, but I didn’t need any help myself.

“TaHtaj shai?”

A question that once challenged me and made my insides turn at the thought of allowing others to help me, but a question that now, because of my Moslawi community, I’m learning to humbly embrace. The hyper-independence is slowly being squashed out of me, and healing is taking place in my own heart, something that could only happen from such a consistent, caring presence of the people around me. I’m learning to not just accept help, but to ask for it. I’m learning to be a villager and to live within the beauty of our intended design for an inter-dependence on one another. It really is sometimes just about presence and the way we show up for each other that makes the biggest difference.

I came here thinking the people of Mosul needed healing and needed what I have to offer. And in a sense, many of them do. Because that’s the point- that we all need each other. We all bring something to the shared table of our humanity and have something to offer each other. Many may need trauma healing services, they need someone to listen who won’t share their story with another, and they need our presence. But I’m convinced that we need them just as much. Maybe even more. I have seen how much I need Iraqis and what they have to offer and how who they are brings healing. There’s something so uniquely powerful and special about the presence of the Iraqi people and the way they show up that profoundly touches every visitor.

I think this is why people who come to Iraq end up loving it so much. Globally, we have largely lost touch with the parts of the human existence that Iraqis still hold onto. In a world that is losing genuine connection with one another, Iraq heals a part of us that we maybe didn’t even recognize was wounded. Many in the west find themselves living with a malaise of isolation, fragmentation, and loneliness without even realizing it. The Iraqi people remind us of the beauty, nay, of the need that we have as humans for one another. The need for connection, for community, for kindness, for hospitality. We wrongfully tend to think we need to be about self-preservation, self-promotion, self-care and looking out for ourselves, but Iraqis remind us that it’s in humbly giving ourselves away and in service to others that we truly find life. Their way of life needfully corrects our pride and our tendency to focus on self, not realizing the social atomization we’ve produced. Their generosity and care for others, including a stranger, forces us to look in the mirror and examine our own values, ways of being, and how far we’ve departed from what truly matters. We’re reminded that we were created for communal living, which has largely been lost in modern society to false connections via social media platforms. In our fast-paced, hurried world that is so focused on what you’re able to produce, the pace of Iraq naturally forces us to slow down and just enjoy another cup of tea with someone. Because that shared cup of tea with a stranger might actually be a sacred ritual of rebuilding lost relational bonds, and it’s in that space we see that sometimes the most valuable thing you can produce is a friend.
So, taHtaj shai?

Yes Iraq, we need YOU. We need who you are. We need
Your culture of honor
Your warm welcomes to a stranger
Your lifestyle of connection and community
Your sense of belonging that you offer
Your heart-felt service
Your commitment to family
Your ability to rise from the ashes
Your ability to hold onto hope when hope seems lost
Your resilience that comes through communal bonds
Your perseverance through hardship
Your devotion to prayer
You.

And to the foreigner traveler- come! We need you too. We’re waiting for you. We long for your presence. You have a seat at our table and we want you with us.
Text and photos by Lynne S. All rights reserved.
You can see more of her work her Instagram.
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